The dragon, on the roof of the Temple of Literature, can be seen as a symbol of the North's protection of the rest of the country.

North Vietnam's location near the Chinese border has determined its mission as protector of the entire nation of Vietnam.  Since the invasions over the centuries have come from the north of Vietnam, the lot of the soldier befell the citizens of the north.  This fate, along with the very harsh weather that also comes from the northern plateaus of Manchuria, has created a stoic nature in the citizens of the North that makes them uniquely conservative.  They have suffered the hardships of floods, storms, wars, invasions and occupation for centuries and have survived.  These hardships have left a distinct characteristic on the North Vietnamese citizen—one that we Americans failed to understand.  The characteristic of moral strength that developed over centuries of hardship was tapped by the communist leadership and mobilized against the French and subsequently the Americans.  This characteristic, along with the naturally developed mission as protector of the country, made the North Vietnamese the proper leaders in their war for independence. 

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Saturday, Jan. 16, 1999

How did it get to be only one week left?  After lunch at the Piano Bar in Ha Noi, we took a pedicab caravan around the city.  In the afternoon we had a conference with the artist who will help us with our community service project at the Ha Noi Plastic Surgery Center.

Photo: The Caravan
Photo: Florist
Photo: Meeting with the Artist

Sunday, Jan. 17, 1999

We visited Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum and then went on to the Temple of Literature in the heart of the city.  At dinnertime we attended a banquet with University of Maryland alumni and representatives from Vietnamese charitable organizations.  Try the Chicken Satay with Peanuts and then finish it off with cinnamon ice cream.  Mmmmm!

Photo: Mausoleum
Photo: Characteristic French Architecture in the North
Photo: Ho Chi Minh's House
Photo: Temple of Literature
Photo: Hoi An silk fashion show before the NGO banquet
Photo: Mi, daughter of a Maryland alumni and star of the banquet

Monday, Jan. 18, 1999

A delegation of students visited Operation Smile to hear about the service-learning project.  In the afternoon, everyone went shopping for toys for the children. We regrouped and toured the Women's History museum.

A look back on our service-learning project
Photo: The delegation at the plastic surgery center
Photo: Dr. Vietri, Viet Nang, the artist, and Dr. Ky, director of the center
Photo: Dr. Ky with one of his littlest patients
Photo: One of the wards at the center
Photo: Statue at the Women's History Museum

Tuesday, Jan. 19, 1999

At the beginning of our full-day trip to the Perfume Pagoda, we drove through farmland of the more crowded but equally beautiful Red River Delta.  The mountain views of the river in the delta rival those of Ha Long Bay.  Next we climbed up the mountain to the caves of the Perfume Pagoda.  Back in Ha Noi, we were treated to an evening conversation with women's history professor Le Thi Qui, from Open University. 

Photo: Sampans on the River
Photo: Entering the caves at the top of the mountain
Photo: Clearing the one-lane highway for our bus to pass
Photo: Meeting professor Le Thi Qui

Wednesday, Jan. 20, 1999

Today was our first day of service-learning at Operation Smile.  We painted all morning, enduring peeks and giggles from the children at the hospital. We were also greeted by Dr. Mark Cuttler, a plastic surgeon from San Francisco who retired in Ha Noi to work at this hospital.   It was an incredibly fun day!  In the afternoon we toured the Ethnology Museum, where we were subtly ushered away so the President of Khazahkstan could arrive for a private tour. Later we had free time to walk around the Lake of the Restored Sword and go shopping!

Photo: Operation Smile
Photo: Meeting Dr. Cutter
Photo: Artist's sketch that we painted over
Photo: Planning our color scheme
Photo: Dr. Vietri and Mi's father go for a spin

Thursday, Jan. 21, 1999

Continuation of our service learning project.  Today, the children were less shy; Meg even managed to coax one on her lap to paint with her. In the afternoon some students went to the fascinating Ho Chi Minh museum while everyone else shopped along the lake. Just before dinner we met the author of After Sorrow, Lady Borton, who joined several of us for dinner! 

Photo: Detail of Ken's painting
Photo: Me, Anoma and Thanh painting
Photo: Final touches
Photo: Students with our guru, Lady Borton

Friday, Jan. 22, 1999

Lunch on our last day was a bittersweet event, where we thanked our guide, Song, for his wonderful information, spirit, energy and candidness with us.  In the afternoon we returned to Operation Smile for a presentation and hanging ceremony, where we gave our ten pictures to the hospital, and also donated a brand new Pentium II computer with a CD-ROM drive so the doctors can access medical websites and journals.  Later we met the deputy Ambassador to Vietnam.  We were treated to a farewell banquet with alumni, NGO representatives, students, and Dr. Vietri.

Photo: A gift for Song
Photo: Presentation ceremony at the center
Photo: "The girls" with Uncle Ho: Jennie, Meg, Liz, Bac Ho, and Anoma
Photo:  Hanging paintings
Photo: Students with the deputy Ambassador
Photo: Expatriate Barbara at the farewell dinner
Photo: Danielle and Ken thanking Dr. Vietri for our wonderful trip.